South Island ▷ West Coast ▷
Punakaiki is the obvious one and it earns its reputation. The Pancake Rocks and blowholes are genuinely something, but the trick is timing - high tide, and either early morning or late evening when the tour buses have cleared out. Same deal with Hokitika Gorge: it's all about that glacial blue water, but go at the wrong time and you're shuffling behind a tour group with phones in the air. Get up early and you'll have it to yourself.
Most people drive straight past and stay in Franz Josef. Leave them to it. Okarito is now NZ's largest pest-free habitat, which means the birdlife here is on the up in a big way - Kiwi at night, Kea and Kakariki during the day. Kayaking the lagoon in the early morning, gliding through shallow wetland channels with mirror reflections and Kotuku all around you, is one of those experiences that's hard to describe until you're actually in it. The trig walk at sunrise or sunset is great too, with the Southern Alps behind you and the Tasman in front.
The Haast Pass drive is packed with natural attractions that are easy to underestimate. Blue Pools is the crowded one but still worth it - the glacial water is something else and a swim there is genuinely bracing. Roaring Billy Falls and Thunder Creek Falls get less traffic and are just as impressive. The whole pass rewards slow driving and random pull-overs, so don't rush it.
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