Timing

To reach Pandora requires a crossing of the Waitahora Stream. This can only be made at low tide. The stream is deep and may involve getting wet to your waist.

Access

Kapowairua is at the end of Spirits Bay Road. Follow signs to Spirits Bay along Te Hapua Road, 21km before Cape Reinga. After 6km turn left into Spirits Bay Road.

The track behind the dunes is signposted on the left just before the road ends.

Track

The Te Paki Coastal Track is a 48 km, 3 day tramp traversing New Zealand’s northernmost tip.

The descriptions here have broken the tramp into bite size chunks, with Cape Reinga at the fulcrum.

This is the first in a trio of walks ending at Cape Reinga.
1. Kapowairua to Pandora
2. Pandora to Tapotupotu
3. Tapotupotu to Cape Reinga

If starting your walk along the beach, the sand is soft, making progress arduous.

Behind the dunes, follow orange marker posts along the vehicle track, which remains even.

To reach Pandora requires a crossing of the Waitahora Stream. This can only be made at low tide. The stream is deep and may involve getting wet to your waist. Check with DoC on stream levels before attempting the walk.

Geology

Around 5 million years ago, the Aupori Peninsula, including Te Paki, was a series of islets, an archipelago separated by shallow seas. With the onset and waning of Ice Ages, sea levels fluctuated and large sandspits formed, sculpted by the prevailing south-westerly winds. Te Paki thus became joined to the greater North Island landmass, but still retains an island character. It feels like a different land.

Fauna

The vast wetland behind the dunes harbours a thriving community of bitterns, rails, Paradise ducks and mosquitoes.

Polynesian History

The great Aupori Tribe chief, Tohe, dreamed his daughter, who lived beyond Hokianga, was ill and resolved to visit her. He journeyed down Ninety Mile Beach, naming landmarks along the way. He vowed his spirit would return if he failed in the completion of his dangerous journey. News of his death was relayed by the servant who accompanied him and the promise of his return was fulfilled by his spirit. Spirits Bay thus received its name and is also referred to as Piwhane Bay.

European History

A 9lb. cannon on the hill above the parking area at the campground was owned by Hongi Keepa, who acquired it from a whaler in the early 1800s. A plaque beneath describes its convoluted history.

When Captain Cook passed in 1769, he noted a village on the western hills overlooking the bay. Evidence of terraces and hangi pits are still visible from near the Waitahora Stream.

In 1772, Marion du Fresne and his French expedition anchored off Spirits Bay and sent parties ashore for water. One ship lost two anchors in a severe storm.

The camp which occupied the grass clearing at Pandora was run by Captain Hector McQuarrie in the 1920s. The bush huts were made from local materials and there were colourful canvas roofs. The wreck of the steamer Kahu provided timber for the ‘excellent floor’ of the dancehall and the salvaged sail gave shelter.

The camp was advertised as being ‘Away up where New Zealand Ends’ and was frequented by the well-heeled of the ‘carriage trade’ needing an escape. It was an arduous journey up Ninety Mile Beach and over the steep hills to the camp, but rewarded with scenic beauty and solitude.

Pandora is named after HMS Pandora, a survey ship which visited the coast in 1849.