Access

From Owhiro Bay, head west until the roadend, where there is parking and a sign indicating the start of the track.

Track

Visit https://wellington.govt.nz/~/media/maps/files/tekopahou.pdf for a map and brochure.

Past the disused Owhiro Bay Quarry. The sheer hillsides are mottled with clumps of green flax, cowled over in defeat to the extreme winds and salt desiccation. Whiffs of decaying seaweed fill the air and salt spray flicks from the wind eddies around offshore rocks.

The track follows a rocky 4WD track between the steep hills and gravel beaches. These raised beach platforms were uplifted in the 1848 and 1855 earthquakes.

Red Rocks are reached after 40 minutes and Sinclair Head is a further 15 minutes. Watch for 4WDs, which also use the track.

Geology

Red Rocks are purple-coloured remnants of undersea volcanic eruptions which took place around 200 million years ago. When basaltic lava bubbles made contact with cold water, the outer skin of molten magma cooled, whilst the enclosed molten rock continued to flow under pressure. It penetrated a weakness in its encasing shell of rock and exploded like a water-filled balloon, forming a pillow shape. Red Rocks are stained red due to the presence of iron oxide and contrast with the pistachio green rocks tainted by chlorite.

Flora

The location is unusual for its collection of flora. 159 indigenous species have been recorded on the hills with a high proportion classified as threatened.

The coastal zone exhibits flora that has evolved to suit Cook Straight’s unique conditions, with a mixture of coastal scrub, flax, tussock and scree. Deforestation has destabilised the slopes and frequent slumping occurs. Tauhinu, speargrass, coprosma propinqua and large leaf pohuehue colonise the scree. Unusually, the coastal cliff plant and invertebrate communities show similarities with South Island sub-alpine communities.

The main hill slopes were previously covered in tawa forest with large rimu and rata. On the slopes with higher exposure to salt laden gales, a smooth, wind resistant canopy of kohekohe, with a karaka, ngaio and titoki understorey would have prevailed.

Today, the main coloniser of the bare ground is the shrub tauhinu, which is not palatable to farm stock and is spray resistant. The associated gorse is a nitrogen fixer and helps establish better soils, although it takes longer for the native bush to overtop than bracken or tauhinu. Later an embryonic forest of manuka, kanuka, mahoe, five finger, coprosmas, hebe and broadleaf scrub will emerge.

On the windy tops, swards of native grasses, speargrass and silver tussock provide habitat for the rare flightless speargrass weevil, the common gecko and common skink. However since the introduction of goats in the early 1980s, the speargrass has been devoured by the voracious eaters with a commensurate decline in habitat for the invertebrate populations.

Fauna

At Sinclair Head a colony of up to 80 fur seals (mostly male) use the rocks as a haul-out site. From May to September they winter over, resting and feeding to prepare themselves for breeding. They were an abundant source of food for Maori, which may explain the unlikely siting of some villages in this exposed and inhospitable location.

Polynesian History

Maori stories relating to the unusual colour are varied. One story says the blood from Maui’s broken nose stained the rocks and was used as bait to fish up Te-ika-a-Maui (The North Island).

400-500 years old settlement sites were inhabited by Ngati Mamoe, Te Atiawa, Ngai Tara and Ngati Ira. Few traces remain of these populations. The area was used by later Maori, who gathered supplies of bull kelp, which floats in gigantic ribbons through the menacing surf.

European History

On the walk you pass a selection of well-maintained baches, no bigger than shoeboxes and brightly painted. Over winter they wouldn’t see the sun, but seem timeless in their setting.